Legends in Stone: A History of Iconic Gemstones and Jewellery
The world’s fascination with gemstones is as old as human history itself. These treasures from the earth, gleaming with colour and mystique, have captivated rulers, inspired legends, and become symbols of power, love, and spirituality. From opulent emeralds to hypnotic sapphires, here’s a journey through some of history’s most iconic gemstones and the jewellery that immortalized them.
The Emerald of the Incas: The Andean Gemstone
Emeralds have long been celebrated for their deep green hue, associated with vitality, renewal, and the lush bounty of nature. In South America, the Muzo people of modern-day Colombia were extracting emeralds centuries before Europeans set foot on the continent. These gems held sacred status among the Incas, who believed emeralds were gifts from the gods.
When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the 16th century, they were awestruck by the Incas’ emerald treasures. Tales tell of an enormous emerald, said to be as large as an ostrich egg, that served as a religious relic. Though the sacred gem was likely destroyed or lost during the conquest, the emeralds of Colombia remain some of the finest in the world.
Today, one of the most famous emeralds is the Chalk Emerald, a 37.8-carat masterpiece mounted in a platinum and gold ring, surrounded by diamonds, and housed in the Smithsonian Institution. Originally part of an Indian maharaja’s necklace, it exemplifies the enduring allure of emeralds throughout history.
The Star of India: Sapphire’s Celestial Mystique
Sapphires have enchanted civilizations for millennia, their rich blue tones evoking the heavens. Associated with wisdom, virtue, and divine favour, sapphires have adorned monarchs, spiritual leaders, and warriors alike.
Among the most iconic sapphires is the Star of India, a 563-carat star sapphire believed to have originated in Sri Lanka, one of the earliest sources of sapphires. The gem is celebrated not only for its size but also for its rare “asterism,” a star-like pattern that appears on its surface due to light reflecting off needle-like inclusions.
The Star of India has an adventurous history. In 1964, it was famously stolen from the American Museum of Natural History in New York in a dramatic heist. Although the gem was recovered shortly thereafter, its daring theft only added to its mystique, cementing its status as one of the most renowned gemstones in the world.
The Curse of the Hope Spinel
While the Hope Diamond is famous for its rumoured curse, few know about its striking sibling, the Hope Spinel. Spinel, often mistaken for ruby due to its brilliant red or pink hues, has a history steeped in royal intrigue. The Hope Spinel, weighing an impressive 50.13 carats, was once part of the famed gem collection of banker Henry Philip Hope in the 19th century.
Sold in 1917 for GBP1,060, the most recent time the chance to acquire the Hope Spinel came in 2015 when it sold for GBP962,500 ($1.47 Million) at Bonham’s auction in London.
Spinels were highly prized in antiquity, with some of the world’s most famous rubies later discovered to be spinels instead. The Hope Spinel’s dark pink brilliance was revered for its rarity, and it passed through generations of collectors before being auctioned for a record-breaking price in 2015. Unlike its diamond counterpart, the Hope Spinel is free of any supposed curses—but it holds just as much mystique.
The Black Prince’s Ruby: A Deceptive Legacy
The Black Prince’s Ruby, now set in the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom, is one of the most storied gemstones in European history. However, the gem is not a ruby at all but a red spinel, further highlighting the historic confusion between these two stones.
The gem’s history is drenched in blood and intrigue. It was first recorded in 1366 when it was given to Edward, Prince of Wales (known as the Black Prince), by Pedro the Cruel of Castile as payment for military aid. The stone passed through the hands of several monarchs and narrowly escaped destruction during the English Civil War when the crown jewels were melted down.
Today, the Black Prince’s Ruby remains a central feature of the British Crown Jewels, its fiery red glow steeped in centuries of royal drama.
The Cat’s Eye of Sri Lanka
Chrysoberyl cat’s eye, also known as Cymophane, is a lesser-known gemstone that captivates with its chatoyancy—a shimmering effect resembling a cat’s slit pupil. This rare optical phenomenon has made cat’s eye gemstones symbols of protection and fortune, particularly in Sri Lanka, where they were first discovered.
One of the most famous examples is the Star Tiger Eye, a stunning 105-carat chrysoberyl discovered in Sri Lanka in the 19th century. It became a prized possession of collectors due to its unparalleled quality and the striking, moving line of light across its surface. Sri Lankan lore holds that cat’s eye stones guard against evil spirits, making them both a talisman and a treasure.
The Opal of the Empress: A Fiery Legacy
Opals, with their kaleidoscopic play of colour, have inspired both awe and superstition. Ancient Romans considered opals symbols of hope and purity, while others viewed their shifting colours as omens of misfortune.
One of the most legendary opals is the Empress of Austria Opal, a gem weighing over 200 carats and originally set in a royal tiara. The stone’s fire—its ability to display flashes of red, green, and blue—cemented its place in royal history. Although the exact whereabouts of the opal are uncertain, its legend lives on as one of the largest and most exquisite opals ever recorded.
The Timeless Allure of Alexandrite
A gem of dual identities, alexandrite is famed for its remarkable colour-changing property. In daylight, it appears green, while under incandescent light, it shifts to a reddish hue. First discovered in Russia’s Ural Mountains in the 1830s, alexandrite quickly became a symbol of Russian imperial grandeur, as its red and green tones mirrored the country’s national colours.
One of the largest alexandrite specimens, the Whitney Alexandrite, is housed at the Smithsonian Institution. Weighing over 17 carats, it exemplifies the gem’s rarity and breathtaking optical phenomena.
The Peacock Throne: A Kaleidoscope of Gemstones
While individual gems have their stories, some of history’s most iconic jewellery pieces are breathtaking not because of a single stone but because of their dazzling assemblages. The Peacock Throne of Mughal India was an unparalleled display of opulence. Commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century, the throne was encrusted with emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and pearls, creating a spectacle of unmatched grandeur.
Although the original throne was dismantled and its gemstones scattered following Persian invasions, its legacy as a masterpiece of jeweled art lives on. It is a reminder of how gems have not only adorned individuals but also served as symbols of imperial might.
A Kaleidoscope of Legends
Beyond diamonds lies a world of gemstones that shimmer with history and mystery. From the hypnotic blues of the Star of India to the fiery hues of the Empress of Austria Opal, these treasures remind us of humanity’s enduring fascination with the beauty of the earth. Each gemstone carries its own unique story, intertwined with the cultures, legends, and people who cherished it.
[A pair of Muzo green emeralds – Picture by KREIS]
[Exceptional Black Opal from Australia with Chinese Writing – Picture by KREIS]
[A ring by KREIS with a ruby as a center stone – Picture by KREIS]
All pieces are part of the collection by KREIS Jewellery.